Normandy Liberation

It was cold last night, it was completely clear again, may have to get our sleeping bag out tonight!  Lovely bright morning, packed away and drove north up to Arromanches.  The aire in town was really busy, we decided to give Bayeaux a miss as we’d been told it was super busy!  Luckily we stopped on the side and had lunch, then as we finished up a van left which was right next to the grass.  So, we quickly jumped in!!  The aire is 2 mins from town centre so we walked in.  The sea was coming in but we could easily see the mulberry harbour and the remains of the bridges that had been built.  

Then we walked up the hill for a fantastic view across the whole bay.  Some good maps illustrated the ‘Overlord’ operation.  Also at the top was a 360 cinema that we went to.  It showed a 19 minute film of the 100 days of the Normandy liberation.  Loads of old film was put together to tell the events, it was brilliant.  Really emotional, especially sad showing the men in boats ready to land and the parachute division.  50% were not expected to make it.  So glad we chose to go in there rather than the museum in the town as I think the kids got a lot more out of seeing the visual.  Evan has understood a surprising amount of it, and we bought a book for him explaining the D-Day landings which he has read cover to cover and then quizzed Chris on constantly!!

Walked back down the hill onto the beach, the tide was so far in there was virtually no dry sand at all!!  Clear to see why it was such a good beach to choose for the mulberry harbour and by landing at night there was very little for the soldiers to have to scramble across.  We had to come back up onto the prom.  Chris bought a ‘cricket’, the clicking communication device that the Americans used.  Kids loved it!!

Kids had a calypo and we walked along to the harbour past some massive houses! Some kids were jumping off the harbour into the sea.

Went back to Flo, it was such a hot afternoon, the kids made finger puppets.  The aire was so busy, loads of Italians arrived and were keeping spaces and then 2 French vans packed right up close to us so we were completely boxed in, sometimes people are idiots!!

We walked back down onto the beach again after tea as the tide was going out really fast.  Now we could walk right out to touch the pieces of the floating bridge.  Arromanches is a pretty town but has lots of dog mess that spoils it!

Familiar places!

A beautiful sunny morning – YEY!!!  The first for a few days!  Started by a leisurely drive along coast road from Trebeurden to Perros-Guirec. It is so beautiful, little islands all in the pink granite are scattered everywhere and little bays and villages with fishing harbours line the coast.

We hit the main road to take us east, one of the first times we've been on a main road all holiday! Timing worked well for us to aim for Cora at Dinan/St Malo.  We could see the church at Pleudihen-sur- Rance as we went over the bridge, scaffolding was still on the steeple!!  Feels strange to be in such a familiar area without actually stopping at Cerilan’s house.  Saw some nice sights though like the Rance, strangely there was a diversion so we had to go down to the Pleudihen turn off to get onto the road east – so funny!!  Bought lots of nice things at Cora, it is definitely the best supermarket brand in Franc in my opinion. 

Continued along the main road and I snapped a picture of Le Mont-Saint-Michel as we go past.

We then drove around past Avranches and to a village called Saint-Jean-le-Thomas.  It is a quiet village on the west coast of the peninsular that goes north to Cherbourg.  Next to a municipal campsite with about 12 spaces is the aire, it is nicely landscaped.  The problem of our cards not working the machine happened again, an Irish family in a LT31 also couldn’t buy a ticket, she said she’d got one from the campsite office.  Instead of that I managed again ask a French couple to buy me one!!  I surprised myself really!!

The beach has nice views of the whole bay across to Le Mont-Saint-Michel from the side we've never seen before, the tide was out again as far as you could see but the kids enjoyed collecting shells and dead crabs again, they stank. 

Did a round trip walk around the village but there wasn’t a lot there so came back to Flo.  The Irish family have 2 young children and speak Irish to them, they came over to play with our toys for a bit, the little girl is 3 and is hard work for her parents!!

Chris did a bbq for tea with garlic lemon and prawns, delicious.  I went down to the campsite to use the toilet and showers, Chris also filled our 8 litre water bottle from their tap.

The beautiful Pink Granite Coast

Grey morning again and then whilst we were having breakfast it drizzled – a strange pattern of rain each early morning but brilliant blue skies by afternoon and evening! Had to change to petrol after about 40min drive, it’s only the 3^rd time in 3 weeks, since we've been here we've used ¾ tank of petrol total.  We've struggled to find LPG again today, must be because it’s the north.  

Arrived at a village called Trebeuden, a small village at the start of the Pink Granite Coast.  It has a large aire adjacent to a coarse sandy beach with lots of little island rocks making it a beautiful natural harbour.  The kids played on the sand and because the tide was out we walked out about 1 mile across flats that were about 1ft deep but had no waves at all.  Loads of shells, rock pools and crabs which we collected – looked like walking on the seabed itself.  Great afternoon playing boules, tennis, football and kids dug a massive channel in the sand!  Absolutely beautiful!!!

Come back to Flo for spaghetti – should have gone to the shop today.  Evan reminded us we had Kougan Aman in the cupboard, it is a Breton butter cake, it was so nice to be reminded of this delicious taste of Brittany.  Will buy some more take home to people. 

No toilet facilities at this aire although book said there would be.  We parked at the back of this aire so we got evening sun which was really appreciated as the wind in the shade was cold – Chris lit a fire log for a bit of warmth.  Parked next to us was a Dutch 1960s/70s big Mercedes van (could have been a 5080), it looked great!  Chatted to the couple in the evening, they were so friendly.  We recommended aires and discussed holidays in Holland and the UK.  We have really loved this aspect of the holiday, people want to chat to us and have been so friendly.  We've been really surprised and blessed by so many people this holiday.

Chris is really happy again now as his radio is picking up Talksport and Radio 5 again!!  Hes been listening to cricket and heard England win, which has pleased him very much.  The news says that there will be a meteorite shower tonight but we were too tired to stay up to watch it!

A very busy day!!

Grey light drizzle again this morning, third day with a wet start but clears by lunchtime to beautiful sunshine.  Changed  plan a bit because of the rain – decided we might as well keep driving a bit further until it cleared.  Stopped at a supermarket to restock before mid-day as nowhere is open on Sunday afternoons in France.  We also ran out of water and needed to empty toilet so chose to use an aire service point in the supermarket car park, this was the first time we’d had to use one, first time for everything!  Chris finally gave in to buying a yellow hose in the shop as the one he’d brought wasn’t long enough or wide enough despite attempts to make it work!  Unfortunately just as we started to use the aire it started to properly rain, the first proper rain we’ve had since being here – so we got soaked!   The service point said 2€ for a jeton but we couldn’t see where to buy the jeton from so I asked a Frenchman who was waiting behind us.  I managed to explain what I needed and that I could see where to buy the jeton, there was a mobile laundrette point next to the aire and I worked out it wasn’t there, so the man took me over to the car wash but he couldn’t see where either!! Eventually we did find the jeton machine but then we realised that it only takes payment by card – we already knew that the French banks are in dispute with the British banks and so are not recognising that there is any cash in the accounts, it’s why the machine at Ile d’orelon didn’t work.  So, I tried my card and it appeared to work until the end when it said ‘cancelled’ but then spat out 5 jetons!!  Who knows what was going on!  So put jeton in, filled water, and emptied loo, unfortunately in the rush Chris left the water cap at the service point, he’s not impressed!!

Chose to head for a peninsular just South of Brest and a town at the end called Cameret-Sur-Mer.  The road follows the coast and some beautiful sandy beaches made stunning scenery.  As we drove down towards one bay we could see a T25 at the bottom and it’s owner was waving profusely as we drove past.  Virtually all VW owners wave and beep their horns at us, I love it!!!  We waved back, beeped the horn and realised it was British and Chris recognised it from Bustypes and Club 80-90, it was ‘Kev the Rev’!!! Chris loves this van - apparently Kev gets a bit of stick for the colour ("hearing-aid brown) but Chris loves it!
  

It was 1pm so we decided to turn around and go back down to the bay to say ‘Hi’.  Kev knows everything about T25s so had a good look around Flo, he recommended 20/50 oil for the summer months as its thicker and will stop the engine light coming on (which it was all day yesterday!!) .  Chris and Kev, Mrs Kev and another couple they were with, went over all the changes we’ve made.  They’ve been wild camping in a bay just down the coast.  We had our lunch and then carried on up the coast but we were really pleased to have stopped and chatted them.  

10 minutes up the road was the village of Cameret-sur-mer, the aire was on top of the hill and right next to a really large standing stone circle (actually it was more like a horseshoe shape!).  It was a massive aire but there weren’t many free spaces – we got one just by the entrance.  Set off for a walk straight away.  

We explored the stone circle then followed the footpath to the cliff path.  

A ruined chateau, the home of a famous French artist, that had been bombed by Germans was right on the cliff edge – looked sad.  Walked to the brow of the hill and had a great view of a sandy beach, we would have considered walking down but the kids didn’t want to!!

We could see a large fortification on the next hill across, probably from WW2, but too far to walk to.  So, instead, we decided to walk the other way along the coast path and what a good job we did as we found some amazing German bunkers to go in!!  For about ½ a mile stretch there were loads that hadn’t been filled in and you could still see where the guns would have been.  

At the very end of the headland was a museum in memory of the War-at-sea, out the front there were about 10 huge anchors from war ships on display.  There was an older French fortification that had been added to by the Germans too.  It was a real gem to find all this, Chris was especially pleased!!  With no guide book for this area we seem to be doing really well for finding some super spots!!  

Buffet tea went down well as kids were hungry after the walk.  We had finally bought a watermelon for the kids who have been nagging for ages to get one, I really don’t like them!! Showered outside the back of Flo again.  Our immediate neighbours are not that friendly although I am trying to smile at them!! Ha ha!!  A lot of people are walking past us on their trip to the bins and recycling, most are very friendly.  One old couple asked us if we were Swiss, we said no, but then they carried on speaking to us in French, basically saying nice about Flo and asking if we liked the area etc, we managed to make ourselves understood!!  Funny!!  Another British woman stopped to talk to us, she had had a few G&Ts we think!!!!  She’d owned a house near Dinan for 4 years but now sold it and bought motorhome.  She gave us a few tips about which wine to buy – she likes one called Roche Mazet red cabernet sauvingnon or white sauvignion, she said she’s tried all the cheap supermarket wines and that is the best!!  We’ll look next time we’re at Intermarche.  Also she suggested we stay at an aire called Wissant just north of Calais, she said its good for the supermarket and has a good beach.  Finally she says we should buy a book called ‘Campervan Stop’  which has aires that ‘All the aires’ doesn’t have.

More great shooting stars again this evening, clearer that last night even!!!

German buses are the best!

Some drunk French bloke kept usawake last night about 3am for an hour and then he started to cry and then rant again ARGHHHHH!!!! Eventually someone shouted at him to shut up!

Decided to go to Concarneau today but beforehand we drove into Quiberon town, a really pretty fishing port – lovely looking beach that reminded me of Dinard in the north.  Enjoyed the drive back along the peninsula too, such beautiful scenery.

We had planned to go to Carnac to see the standing stones it is famous for but there was a 5 mile queue to get anywhere near the town which was a bit disappointing, the satnav diverted us through great scenery anyway!

We chose Concarneau as our next stop, the skies had cleared.  We went to the aire there, it was in the railway car park!! As with all the aires we were able to drive straight into a space although lots of people were just parked up on the side.  

We walked about 5 mins towards the centre but decided that the kids weren’t in the mood for a hike so we had lunch and then drove down to the old walled town, 'Le ville close' to find a parking space which we did eventually.  

It was really worth the trip, a fantastic band was playing Celtic folk music immediately after the bridge into the medieval town.  Before children we would have stayed, eaten and drank all day here! The narrow streets are beautiful and although busy they had a great atmosphere.  We walked all the way through the town and then back along the walls.  At the end of the town is a square where 2 performers were doing a conjuring act with juggling batons and balls.  Although it was all in French and the fact that they dropped the balls a lot, the kids enjoyed it!!  They moaned a bit that their legs were tired and that they were thirsty but overall afterwards said it was good.  

Chris then took us to a different aire at a village called Pendruc.  The aire had space for 6 vans only, when we arrived there were 2 spaces which we were amazed at as it was 3pm and the view was amazing! We chose a front row spot again next to a van as cool as ours!!!   

A HUGE German Mercedes 319 truck that looked like it may have been an ex army ambulance.  It was dark green, yellow and orange, a DIY camper-job but ubercool.  We looked great next to each other!!  The beach was even closer than the day before, about 30 sec walk and beautiful again.  The tide was coming in again - the beach was a nice sand/stone mix.  The children played for a while on the beach then we came back for tea.  

Afterwards we walked along to the coast road to the next bay and watched a gorgeous sun set.  It was a lovely family in the German van next to us.

Small chemical loo outside in woodland picnic area next to aire wasn’t too bad.  

Many people came to the aire and were turned away.  We were very blessed to get a spot.  Watching the bats as we go to bed.

Home to Brittany!

Drizzle this morning so quick pack up and head for Brittany!!!  So excited to be back there again!!  Next island to stay on this time was Quiberon, a beautiful (now peninsular) island with sandy beaches on the calm eastern side and dramatic rocky crags on the western Atlantic side.  The aire is a large out of town space about 1 mile from the most southerly tip.  We chose a spot that meant the kids had plenty of space to play safely at the end of one of the parking bays.  The barrier wasn’t working and so the stay was free – fantastic!!  1 minute walk to the coast where a stony bay with huge rocks was being battered by the incoming tide. This coast is called Le Cote Sauvage, it really is wild and beautiful too. There was a beautiful old fashioned tall ship on the horizon.

We then walked along the coast path about a mile to the end where there was a café and ice cream stall – the kids enjoyed an ice lolly which melted far too quickly!!  Walked back feeling wind-swept and the hungry!  Casoulet and dauphinoise again, kids aren’t bored of it yet!!  Showered behind tarpaulin again, some nosey neighbour stared the whole time!!

Interesting how the villages have changed style again.  The whitewash of the Vendee and Atlantique (as well as Dordogne) has been replaced with slate roofs and grey stone coloured bricks made of the local granite of the coast and dark coloured slate roofs.  All the signs have become bilingual with the Breton and French and we have both commented that we fee ‘at home’ even though we’ve not been to this actual part of Brittany before!!

Spent last part of evening in Flo  - definite change in climate here on coast compared to Dordogne; the sun goes in and it feels cold whereas as we were boiling all night before!  The sky was completely clear here and we went out to gaze at the stars for a while before bed.  I saw my first shooting star, super impressed!

Ile de Noirmoutiere

Showered, did more washing and then checked out. 56€ total so not too bad.  Grey drizzle this morning so no worries about leaving, heading for Ile de Noirmoutier.  The English couple at Gastes recommended that we drive to the very tip of the island to a small aire, so we did!!  The drive over the bridge onto the island was lovely and compared to ile d’orelon the views were stunning. 

A much prettier island and less commercialised.  Sea salt farms as well as huitres and moules is the main business on the island.  We drove to a village called L’Herbaudiere which has a pointe.  The aire is tiny with about 10 spaces but we were lucky and got a space straight away.  Lots of people had to turn around as no space for them.  We walked into the village.  It has a big port/marina with restaurants and souvenir shops surrounding the harbour, looks really pretty.  Got change for ticket machine by buying a bag of nourmoutier sea salt, 8€ for aire.  

The aire was 30 meters from coast, really rocky with sandy patches.  Tide was coming in fast, lovely views south to a large sandy beach and north to the Pointe which had a large WW2 bunker on top.  

 

The kids enjoyed playing on rocks, Chris took Evan back to Flo for the toilet and during this time Morgan managed to fall on some rocks and cut open her shins so Seren, Morgan and I followed not long after!!  

Sausages for tea went down VERY well, especially with Morgan.  Seren has been difficult with the past few meal times not really wanting casoulet, dauphinoise, curry, lentils or whatever else we’ve had so it was nice to have a stress-free meal with her!!

After tea we walked the kids out to the pointe with the German bunker on, about 1 mile along coast path.  Evan was REALLY interested to know what it was and why it was there so Chris explained and linked it in with our visit to Oradur sur Glane previously.  They climbed up onto the bunker. The tide had started to go out leaving rock pools so we walked back along the beach looking for crabs – was slim pickings but Chris eventually found some big ones, they were still too fast though to catch!!  Seren loved popping seaweed bladders and Morgan collected a load of periwinkles.  Reminded me of Port Eynon on Gower.  Would have been great for a late night BBQ on beach whilst the sun sets.

Automatic toilet on aire was awful so once again very grateful to have Flo’s loo! As we walked back into the carpark there is a T25 being pushed out trying to start - Chris joined in;could so easily have been us earlier today on the way here – we were diverted just after La Rochelle into a village with a crossroads that was so ridiculously narrow and everyone was trying to get over in all directions.  After 45 mins queuing to get to this crossroads we were at the front waiting to go over when half way across we think Chris stalled and then Flo wouldn’t start again!!! PANIC!!!!!!  Blocking the whole junction that people were queuing hours to get to led to a few horns being honked!!! The only thing to do was pray – which we did and after probably only a minute or 2 which felt like an hour Flo started again!!! AMEN!!  We had to fight our way back into the flow of traffic!!  Panic over, ha ha ha !!!  No further problems!!

Aquarium

La Rochelle is about 10 mins from this site so after telling the kids back in Loire one day that their behaviour had been appalling we decided that we should take them to the aquarium.  We got up early – had to really squeeze past the chalet driver’s cars to get out! Chris is adamant we need ot get power-steering fitted!  We were a bit apprehensive about using the satnav as when we were looking for a supermarket yesterday it directed us to the 10^th century market in the very heart of old La Rochelle!!!  We got some VERY funny looks – was pretty crazy to be driving through the medieval streets, one guy even took our photo!!! We must have looked a right sight!!!

Still, it did do its job fine and we found the car park for campers and walked to the aquarium; we walked through the old port and arrived to find a 30 min queue already and it was only 10am!!  Finally got in to find a ridiculous system of buying tickets and then going through a turnstile and then wait to go into a submarine before finally entering the aquarium itself.  Chris became fairly irritated by it!!

Personally I find aquariums to be pretty much of a muchness, but the kids really enjoy them.  I did like the jellyfish of which there were plenty!  Probably spent about 2hrs there which when compared to the time we went to Blueplanet in Chester was pretty impressive!!

Afterwards we drove down to L’Houmebeau port where Chris taught Evan to skim stones.  Went to a Bricolage shop after to buy a voile to keep mosquitoes out of the main door.  Bought a proper weighted thing but got back to Flo to discover it wasn’t wide enough – typical us, waste of money!!  Hopefully we can use it somewhere at home instead!!

Chris cooked beef curry for tea, Evan said it was the best meal of the holiday so far!!! So funny!