Camping Le Grand Sologne

Kids are really in the swing of sleeping in Flo now, Evan and Morgan wake at about 8:30 and stay in their beds 'til 9 most mornings!! Amazing considering we’re all sleeping in such a small space!  After the wet and cold days in the Auvergne we have decided that unfortunately Flo is not really big enough for us all anymore; we’ll definitely get a motorhome when we get back.  We’ve told this to the kids and got mixed responses: Evan said “ok, when? What type?, how big? Where will I sleep?”; Seren got sad and was nearly crying because of how much she’ll miss Flo, she loves Flo, she doesn’t want a new motorhome etc.; and Morgan just says “Yey!!” So funny to see their different personalities reflected here!

Drove north again and took toll road for 1 ½ hours to a village called Nouan-Le-Fuzelier.  As we were driving we went through a village called Salbris which appeared to have a nice aire on the river – check this out for future years.  As we came off the toll road the Gendarmerie were waiting to pull us over…great!!!  Asked Chris for his licence and Flo’s registration docs which we gave him, he walked over to his mate and around Flo a couple of times to make us feel worried and then gave them back saying they were fine!! Phew!!!  Don’t know if I can take much more excitement!!!

The campsite we chose was called Le Grand Sologne and was 3*s with good reviews on ukcampsite.co.uk  Very friendly owners gave us a nice pitch (no.134) that was just set back from the huge lake on the site.  It’s a classic French campsite; huge, partly wooded with some sunny spots.  Our pitch was half shaded.  It was great for the kids who had loads of space to play football and cricket etc. without bothering anyone.  I bought a jeton for the machine a laver and put a wash on whilst we walked into the village.  There is a huge grand park in the centre of the village with roman statues, a bandstand; and a train station.  We stepped inside the village church which was very pretty as they all are and the shop was closed(!); on the way back Chris’ flipflops gave him a massive blister – the saga continues!!

Hung all the washing out and made us look like a Chinese laundry!! A British couple are fishing in the lake and have caught a massive fish.  The reception lets you reserve bread for the morning so I've requested 2 grand pain and also got wifi.  Lots of Dutch couples arrived in the evening who were obviously stopping off on their way south, Chris enjoyed watching people struggle to set up!! 

Camping by the canal

If it had been a clear day we would have stayed longer in Auvergne, we want to go to the top of Puy de Dome on the train and visit Volvic – however it was just as cold and wet as when we went to bed so we decided to leave and come back another year.

As we drove north we rapidly dropped over 1000m, the sky cleared and the sun came out – it was like being in another world.  The dark enclosed aire combined with the bad weather had really affected our moods, it was a definite lightening of our spirits as we saw the sun again!!

Drove onto the peage again to avoid start-stop traffic, we headed for a small town called St.Amand-Montrond.  The aire was alongside the canal about 5 min from the centre of the town.  People were fishing but only catching tiddlers. It was lunch time and much to Chris’ continued annoyance everywhere was shut for lunch! You’d think he’d have got used to it by now!!  That said, the Casino was open so filled up with bread and fruit – oh, and another pair of flipflops for Chris!

Ate lunch in a small square with fountains and then walked to the 16^th century fortress ruin in the town.  It was boiling in complete contrast to this morning at the Auvergne.  Unfortunately most of the fortress was fenced off but it was a pleasant walk with nice views across the town.

Back at Flo the kids enjoyed playing next to the canal – loom bands although very irritating because of the mess they make are an excellent way to occupy children for hours!!  

Pleasant French families were either side of us. It was nice spending the evening next to the canal, we even saw an otter swim past which is pretty cool I think!!

A cold night at the volcano!

The fog came down really tick overnight and it was cold, nearly caught us out after last year’s heat wave!!  I had a bit of a panic as I haven’t really brought many cold weather clothes!!  Jumpers, trousers and coats were thankfully enough to warm us up!!

We drove the steep, very slow 20 minute drive through thick fog to Volcania.  Chris was not happy about the drive and neither was Flo!!

Volcania is a science museum/theme park built in the hollow of an extinct volcano.  It is predominately an indoor venue and so as a result it was packed, thankfully we had decided to stay in the aire there tonight so we missed all the queues!  The aire is pricy at 10E a night but is massive and there weren’t many people there. 1^st obstacle was that the pedestrian gate was locked so I was shouting in French at a parking attendant who said he would come  but never did….big queues at all the booths  and it was expensive entrance cost of 82E for us all so we hoping to be impressed!

I hired 5 audio guides from reception and find out there is no English guide book.  The ‘rides’ and ‘experiences’ are simulations of eruptions; flying over super-volcanoes; travelling underground to a magma chamber and retelling legends of dragons; as well as being very informative.  

The favourite rides turned out to be ‘Mission Toba’ where a full surround floor and screen image simulated flying over the super volcano at Toba; we stood in pods which also moved and gave an excellent impression of flying.  Another favourite was in a 5D cinema, the ride was called ‘The Dragon ride’.  We wore 3D glasses, the chairs moved, water sprayed, heat flared, and the screen showed us travelling deep down a mine shaft into a volcano where there were horrendous dragons living who were chasing us!! All the ‘rides’ had health warnings and said they weren’t suitable for under 5s however we took Morgan on all them and she loved them, she’s feerless!!!  Another 4D cinema was ‘The awakening of the giants of the Auvergne’, this simulated what could happen if the major volcanoes of the Auvergne erupted today, it was another brilliant show using 3D technology, water and wind were sprayed at us from the seats in front and even straps underneath the chairs moved which felt like snakes biting our legs!!!I loved this one!! Morgan’s favourite was one where they simulated us going deep into a magma chamber (it was called ‘Magma Explorer 3); it said we had to hold the rail and they weren’t joking, it shock so hard Morgan nearly fell over and I had to put my hand on the rail so she didn’t repeatedly bang her head on it!!  She found it really funny!!  A more relaxing attraction was a straightforward 20minute film about our relationship with volcanoes in a 430m high cinema screen, one of the biggest in Europe!!  

Overall it was a really great attraction and the children loved it despite all the queuing, was also perfect for such a dank day!  

The kids all got gifts at the shop and said it was one of the best days they’ve had.

It was a really cold wet evening, the children watched films on the ipad and Chris made ravioli in Bolognese sauce which is the children’s new favourite ‘French’ dinner!!! – It was warm and they were starving so it went down really well.  Trousers, jackets and even Flo’s heater were needed to keep the cold away tonight!!

Volcano country!

Flo started this morning!! WHOOOHOO!!! It doesn’t stress me but I do hold my breath everytime Chris turns the key!!  We've been listening to podcasts by Jarrod Cooper, Dave Russell and Richard Taylor and Chris' old Friend Paul Hopkins these last few days.  They’ve preached on believing in the supernatural, expecting good things and the fact that God wants good things for us – he wants us to enjoy our holiday and as we learn to trust in Him and be grateful for every extra blessing we have in Flo!! AMEN!

It’s another misty start, we got up and drove to the Carrefour at Brive – it’s one of the massive ones so we took our time.  We drove northeast heading for the Auvergne; it is one of the few places that I have researched as a good place to visit because of it’s 110 volcanoes in a 30km stretch.  We again decided to take the toll roads so it would be less strain on Flo – it was a good drive until we got to the toll booth which was unmanned, when we put our credit card in it wouldn’t accept it!  As Flo is left hand drive Chris was having to do all the tickets and difficult gear changes at the same time so this was particularly  stressful – he ended up putting notes and thankfully it was fine!  

We drove to an aire in a village called Plaugnat which was at the foot of the Plaugnat volcano.  This was one of the first times when the aire looked nicer in the book than reality – we chose it because it was grassy but in reality it was a steep grassy bank that was heavily wooded so no good for the kids to play on.  It wasn’t great but it was only 20 minutes from the Volcania science museum which we really want to visit.  The altitude here is really high and as such the clouds are really low and the temperature has dropped considerably. We walked into the village but there wasn’t really anything, looked like it had war damage and then had been rebuilt 60s style. We all had to go inside for the evening as it had gotten really cold compared to other nights.  


We had been fortunate to have had a clear drive earlier as we were able to see the outline of the big volcanoes including the huge crater on Puy de Dome and the Volvic mountain which was amazing to see.

Borrowed time

Another misty morning so we couldn’t even see the chateau but we are right in the middle of a narrow valley so the mist is expected.  

We've decided to stay here one more night - it’s free and in a beautiful location so we’d be silly to leave really as we don’t know how long Flo will last!!  Another scare this morning with the battery – it was choking to start, took 3 goes and then when Chris tried to change to LPG he killed it and so we had to jump off the spare battery we bought before the gear stick broke!!  What a joke!! We then decided to move again to another spot in the aire!!  Fiddling around with wires and the solar panel Chris reckons that he has sorted it!  

We grabbed bread, cheese and water and decided to walk up again into the village.  This time we wandered along to the church, as we arrived the morning mass was finishing and the huge bell was ringing over and over.  A couple of young families came out; a christening I think, the fathers were having to hold their hands over the babies ears!!  The church was huge and although it had a large ornate alter the rest of the church was very plain for a catholic church.  We ate out rustic lunch on a picnic bench and watched lizards climbing up and down the church walls.  The kids were fascinated by the cemetery, especially the huge family crypts and all the personal items and family photos that were placed on top of them.  We walked around the base of the town and out along a country road, a lovely house with a pool was for sale at the end, exactly like I would like!! Hahaha!!  

Walking back through the town it was scorching again so we decided to stop for a drink under the shade of the Vicounts bar in the village centre.  2 biere blanches, 2 limonades and 1 jus d’orange – all very much appreciated!  We went to an exhibition about the history of the town, it was all in French but we understood that Turenne used to be a very wealthy town… we saw in the chateau yesterday that the Viscounts who lived there were even allowed to print their own money!!

Evan says that this is the loveliest place he has been to.  

More and more discussions about where to go next – we finally decide to leave Avignon and the Ardeche to next year and instead make our way slowly north so if we do need a breakdown again it won’t be as far home or cost as much!!

Best morning view of the holiday!

Teriphique Turenne

We've decided not to go anywhere in Flo today following yesterday’s adventures!  So we had a leisurely start and made a picnic to take on a walk. 

We decided to climb to the chateau at the top of the village.  It is very steep in places and it was boiling again today so we took our time – none of the kids complained though and even Morgan walked without asking for a carry!!  We paid 4,50E each for Chris and I to go into the chateau and the kids were free – a lot of it was in ruined or owned privately but the views from the top were stunning.  The circular tower that still stands has a staircase to the top but we didn’t fancy the huge climb so settled for the view from the bottom. It was so hot the kids the kids enjoyed lizard spotting, they never tire of seeing them!

Looking down at the aire from the Cahteau.

As we got back to the lower parts of the village we went into a number of shops selling produits regionaux, one of them was in the cellar of the house so was lovely and cool – I enjoyed speaking to the owner in French, she explained the products were made by 3 people, many of which were nut related so I told her Seren had an allergy and so she suggested that we left those!!!  She recommended a honey and sunflower aperitif and also some local bieres, so we bought a couple as well as 3 cola Calypos for the kids, so everyone was happy!!!

There is also a little local shop next to the aire, it sells le pain de campagne which is the most rustic loaf we've ever had; it’s nearly burnt black on the bottom from a traditional oven, and really crusty, but then beautifully soft inside and with a wonderful flavour!  We also stopped at the tourist office; Seren bought a book showing how to draw princesses, Evan got a knights colouring book and Morgan chose a puzzle; these along with their SAT workbooks kept them busy for hours when we got back to Flo! 

The aire became more quiet towards the end of the evening so Chris moved Flo to the back corner spot and we put the shower tent up. Everyone washed and felt much better after such a sweaty day; the tent was a brilliant buy and has made it much easier to shower whilst wild camping.

A sticky mess!

Well, what a day!....

We have discussed a lot about what to do for the next few days….we are so fortunate that we have 5 weeks here, we have no need to rush so we decide to go just up the road to La Roque Gageac.  We were ready at 10am, Chris goes to start engine and it was dead. ARGHHHH!!!!!! Luckily the nice  Dutch couple next to us gave us a jump start, Chris thinks that the leisure battery or split charge is draining the starter so suggests we buy another battery in case it goes again.  

We drive to Sarlat and stop at an auto shop – it is just a man and a counter and Chris goes in to try and explain what he needs…. The guy has no English so I end up asking him to come out to see what was already there so he does.  There wasn’t an identical one, but one was close enough which Chris says he can make fit.  Feeling pleased and relieved that we had managed to get what we wanted we left.  We entered a roundabout, Chris put Flo into 2^nd gear and then the whole gear stick came off in his hand!!! Which he then handed to me!!!!! ARGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

So we’re driving along the town bypass in 2^nd gear with no stick!! I start panicking but desperately stopped myself screaming/crying/hyperventilating/swearing/vomiting etc. so as not to panic the kids!!!  Chris wasn’t panicking; he drove quite calmly around 2 roundabouts (without stopping!!) and took us back to a large supermarket car park which would be a safe spot for us to stop. Personally, feeling pretty sick, and still desperately trying not to cry, I was relieved to get out of the van and so I took all the kids into the L’Eclerc, whilst Chris got on the phone to the breakdown insurance.

The insurance gave us the option of a hire car or a hotel, and they arranged for a pickup truck to come and get us.  We decided that we should have a hire car and we’d buy a cheap tent so that we could at least still drive around and visit places whilst Flo was being fixed.  So the lady arranged a taxi to collect Chris and take him to the car-hire place but before it arrived the pick up lorry arrived.  Again the guy had no English so I explain to him that Flo is in 2^nd gear and he nods his head and winches her onto the back of his truck! He then says that he will fix the gear stick today and that we should all get in his cab (!!!!) so we did, not a seat belt on anyone!!! He drove really fast for about 20 minutes to his garage at Souillac and opened a waiting room for us. Multiple games of hangman, eye-spy and a couple of films on the ipad later (taking about 4hrs rather than the 30 mins it should have because he was doing 100 other jobs at the same time!) he’d welded the gear stick back on and Flo drives as well as she did before –for now!!!

So after a very stressful few hours we found ourselves on the road again!  Thankful for the blessing of having Flo back and not having to have been separated in order to get hire cars or be sleeping in a tent or hotel room tonight!!  We decided we would be too late to get a place at La Roque aire now, so Chris chose an aire 20 mins north of Souillac called Turenne.  Turenne is another one of Frances ‘most beautiful villages’.  I was in complete turmoil about what to do for the rest of our holiday now, my gut reaction was to say that we've had a fantastic relaxing week in Dordogne, brilliant fun in the pool and some great weather; I feel like I've been on holiday and could go home now if necessary.  Chris is more calm about it – he says we shouldn’t rush the decision but he does say he doesn’t feel comfortable pushing Flo to go all the way down to Avignon as we had planned, so we’ll do that another year.  We decided we would go head slowly north, stopping at places along the way…my father text me saying “just go with the Flo…!!”, he’s not often funny but this I like!!!

Turenne is a beautiful medieval village on a rock, the houses are built into the rock leading up to the remains of a chateau on the top.   The houses all have red and yellow flags and the streets are cobbled.  There was even a rainbow so make it look amazing!

Chris took the children for a walk after tea to explore and found a live band playing in the main square, the kids loved seeing them.  It really is one of the most beautiful places I've seen and it is for places like this that we love this style of holiday so much.

It was all lit up when it got dark and we could hear the band playing, a perfect way to help us unwind after the worst day!! It certainly helps remind us that despite all the trauma of the day God is still God, we were all safe, the sun was shining so all was good!

Wash day!

It’s washing day for me – I was really hoping for a hot day and I wasn’t disappointed.  Took the girls to play in the park whilst it was washing, it was sweet to watch them make friends with some girls from Gateshead who had arrived in the middle of yesterday’s downpour!!  Chris put up a line and we went to the pool.  This was the hottest day so far, the forecast said 31C, could easily have been hotter in the suntrap, we were there 4 hors!!  Dehydrated and shattered when we got back!

We began putting Flo straight ready to leave in the morning and bought frites from the van for tea, they were a nice treat! We watched 5 hot air balloons take off from the field

opposite whilst the girls re-enacted Frozen again with ribbons!  Straight to sleep again until about 8am like most days so can’t complain!!

Going underground

We gave the kids the choice of visiting the same cave as last year or a different one – they all wanted the same one again.  So, praying Flo could make it up the steep climb (which she did thanks to ‘G’ gear again!) we made it there for 11am.  The French CD course I've been listening to before coming has really helped with my French this year – I know a lot more instinctively and I’m quicker translating than previously.  I asked the lady for our tickets and audio, and obviously thought I’m so good that she then gave me all the instructions in French – explained when the tour was leaving, where to get the audio sets from etc. all in French and then asked for the cash in English!! So funny, numbers are never something I struggle with so was strange to have all these instructions in French and then “twenty five euros please”!!

The children really needed the loo so I told Chris to take them whilst I collected the audio – we had heard the call for our tour before I’d even paid so I said they had to be quick – however we remembered Seren’s ‘accident’ here last year so weren’t taking any chances!  However, by the time they got back the tour had left so we had to run down the cave entrance shaft in the pitch black to catch up!!!  Classic us – good job we knew where we were going from last year.  The tour was amazing again, as it was last year and we all really enjoyed it.  I was tempted to buy a jug from the gift shop as I've been looking out for one for flowers, it was very pretty and sparkly having dripped on for 12 months in the cave but for 40E I couldn’t convince myself – I’ll probably regret it!!!  

Kids played in the playground for a bit and then we left to go the supermarket (again!) at St. Cyprien; it’s a lovely village with a huge abbey on the cliff side.  The town was busy as there was a market in the main street.  We unfortunately couldn’t find a parking spot so went straight to the supermarket and stocked up – Chris is cross to see a huge freezer full of ice and after last year’s shenanigans looking for it he quite frankly can’t believe they have so much!!  Chris promised the kids a bbq tonight so prawns, sausage and steak were bought ready – we also found pretzel sticks that are a safe snack for Rennie. The Brico was closed for lunch much to Chris’ annoyance as he wants to buy a tarpaulin!

We got Evan trunks at the supermarket so he doesn’t have to wear his pants anymore and also Seren and Morgan another bikini as I can’t stand the stress of losing them again!!  At the pool we've made friends with children who have diving sticks which keep the kids busy for hours so we were looking for them at the shop but they don’t sell them.  They did however have much nicer looking flipflops for Chris – I have a feeling that these are going to turn into the new ‘great chair hunt’ of last year!!!  Chris is now officially over his flipflop phobia of the past and agrees that they are very comfy.  Morgan feels very grown up in her new bikini so much she won’t take it off!!

We had a lovely afternoon in the pool again, Seren was nearly in there for 3 hours without a break!!  Ended up sat next to a Welsh speaking family from Tenby, which was a bit bizarre!!  The little girl is ‘Nia Seren’ so we became her new best palls!!  There was a band on at the bar this evening, the 1^st ‘entertainment’, it was really nice listening to them sing a mixture of English and French songs.

Just keep swimming...

Misty morning so we can’t even see the castle!!  After breakfast we all went up to the shop to re-stock again, the children can’t get enough of the sliced tomatoes and juicy peaches!  Yesterday Chris got apricots which the kids liked but I can’t stand the texture so I won’t get them again!! 

Seren and I walked up to the village again, we have managed to lose her tankini top somewhere, so she chose a new bikini; I walked her over to the hotel owner opposite the shop and asked if she could try the bikini on in their toilet, very proud of my French!!  Chris says she looks 15 not 5 in it - not happy!!  


Also got Morgan some arm bands so she can relax and actually spend more time ‘swimming’ and hopefully not get so cold!

We spent the afternoon in the pool again – it was so much better for Morgan and even I could do some lengths knowing she was ok. Seren has been practising breast stroke under water and is getting good; I’m trying to convince her that she can hold her breath for longer!

Lovely evening too! Still can't believe how brown the kids get (especially Seren) even with all the sun cream Chris keeps slapping on them.

Beautiful Beynac!

This is the start of our relaxation.  We gave the kids cereals which is a proper novelty compared to last year when the fridge didn’t work!!  They loved it – so sweet!!  
It’s market day, so we walked along the river to the beautiful medieval village; it was really bustling selling local produce of the Perigord which is frois gras and nut infused delicacies so we decided to give them a miss!!  We bought goggles for the kids as I’d forgotten them and then we walked up into the medieval town a bit (it’s very steep), including a very narrow street that a crazy Italian had tried to drive up!!  

There’s a lovely little grocery shop, a boulangerie and a boucherie opposite the campsite so we stocked up on our essentials which are tomatoes, cucumber and cheese!! We also made the decision to allow Seren to have the bread from the baker – it was lovely and she was fine but we watched her like a hawk the whole time she was eating.  Chris’ sandals have rubbed his feet so we also bought him flipflops which is breaking his rule about bits between his toes and also they have union jacks on so he hates them even more!!! Hahaha!!! Beggars can’t be choosers and his white shower sandals are so hard they are killing him!!! 

We swam again after lunch and the weather was much better, Morgan goes blue when she is cold though which is a bit scary!!  Seren is the one who really loves the water and has improved a lot – they are both much more confident underwater.  We had a lovely evening watching the girls playing and singing, and Evan throw balls and making loom bands, we have such well behaved kids!! 

Since we arrived in France my phone hasn’t been working despite 3 assuring me that the phone was enabled and that I would have the same usage package in France as I do in the UK….so I rang them and ended up going round and round in circles being put thorough to various people until about 30 minutes later it was sorted - free unlimited data - Chris is over the moon!